A legacy of skill and cultural bonding, Varanasi's Zardozi craftsmanship shines globally

By Anuj Jaiswal
Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh) [India], September 7 : Known as one of the world's oldest living cities and a spiritual capital, Varanasi is celebrated for its craftsmanship, particularly in weaving and embroidery.
In the narrow lanes of Varanasi's Lallapura neighbourhood, skilled artisans create exquisite Zardozi embroidery, which is renowned worldwide.
These craftsmen produce badges, emblems, and garments, which are also used by foreign dignitaries, military officers, and leading religious figures.
The artisans also fulfil custom orders from fashion houses, using materials like zari (gold and silver threads) and silk.
The craft, one of finest traditional embroideries, is concentrated in the Lallapura area of Varanasi and involves a collaborative effort between Hindu and Muslim communities, with increasing participation from women, especially since Zardozi received Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2013.
Shadab Aalam, an artisan, told ANI that they work on badges and other products of artistic value.
"Banarasi Zardozi has been given a GI tag. The batch work we do is called 'Bardozi.' This is our third generation engaged in this work. I have been working in this craft for nearly 15 years. My father and grandfather were also involved and it is a century-long business for my family. After the GI was given, both the government and non-government sector are giving us a lot of focus. Many customers demand Zardozi craftwork since Banaras is popular for this. The items we create are intricately crafted on leather. We are receiving continuous orders and the demand has been going up since GI tag. Craftsmen are also taking more interest in the work," he said.

Shah Nawaz Aalam, another artisan, told ANI that they use zari and metal work, along with various techniques, to prepare craft pieces.
"We even incorporate blankets, which enhance the quality of the craftwork... We also work with gold and silver. Two grams of gold is used in 10 grams of material. Silver is also used in the same proportion, two grams of silver per 10 grams of material," he said.
Varanasi boasts the highest number of GI tags in India, with 34 products, including the famous Banarasi saree. The industry has thrived under the GI tag, expanding its market reach across Europe, the Gulf, and Asia.

Dr Rajnikant, a GI expert and recipient of Padma Shri, said that Kashi caters to the demand for badges, monograms, cap insignias, and epaulettes, often for foreign dignitaries.
He said when France President Emmanuel Macron visited Varanasi on the invitation of Prime Minister Narendra Modi in 2018, the women weavers showcased their craftsmanship in a live demonstration.
"They were crafting the emblem of France. He was very impressed to see their Zardozi work. Weavers presented an emblem of France. This craft caters to demands from Europe, Gulf countries even the states of USA. Monograms and even the batches of militaries are crafted here," he said.
He said Zardozi work of Banaras is practised in different parts of the country but craftwork such as monograms, badges, flags, and emblems is found here.
Rajnikant said as Zardozi received the GI tag, it also revitalized the traditional craftsmanship.
"The best thing about it is that people across the world demand handcrafted emblem, badges, not the one manufactured from machines. Before the receiving of the GI tag, orders largely came through exporters, however, as we created awareness, master artisans (of Zardozi) are now directly receiving orders. PM Modi's mantra of Local to Global is being implemented here. People across the world approach master craftsmen from Varanasi for orders," he said.
Zardozi work is entirely handmade, with skilled artisans in Varanasi holding exclusive expertise in this craft. Over 500 to 600 artisans and their families from across Varanasi dedicate long hours, crafting each piece with precision using gold, silver, and brass.

Artisan Mohammad Rizwan said 'zari,' is a mix of gold, silver and brass. He said a batch can take around twelve hours for completion.
"We make batches for the countries across the globe, including in Europe, Africa, America," he said.
The flourishing Zardozi and saree industries have been further bolstered by PM Modi's 'Local for Global' initiative, positioning Varanasi as a hub of global craftsmanship.